I have a quest to work my way through The Pantry’s entire menu, which apparently, given their execution on a variety of dishes, seems to be none too difficult of a task.
On a recent visit, I settled on the Roasted Pork Shoulder ($12.50). This well-composed plate included a pile of thinly sliced shoulder meat resting alongside three hunks of Czech potato dumplings and a pile of braised red cabbage.
The blending of flavors, due in large part to the pool of red cabbage juice seeping into the other components, is really what elevates this dish. The dumplings are meant to be thick and somewhat under-seasoned, a vessel to capture the burst of tanginess injected from the cabbage. The slightly overcooked pork also benefits from the pool of juice originating from the plate’s lone veggie.
Make no mistake, compartmentalized eaters should shy away from this dish; the magic lies in getting a little of everything on each forkful… and this is exactly my kind of eating!
Like most dishes at The Pantry, the Roasted Pork Shoulder represents hearty comfort food that fills your belly without putting a dent in the wallet.
The restaurant continues to consistently serve up dynamite cocktails, shareable appetizers (like the bacon-wrapped dates and truffle deviled eggs) and traditional entrees under an umbrella of top-notch service and a cozy atmosphere.
I wonder what I’ll order next time around. Maybe the Fish & Frites.