I have a quest to work my way through The Pantry’s entire menu, which apparently, given their execution on a variety of dishes, seems to be none too difficult of a task.

On a recent visit, I settled on the Roasted Pork Shoulder ($12.50). This well-composed plate included a pile of thinly sliced shoulder meat resting alongside three hunks of Czech potato dumplings and a pile of braised red cabbage.

The blending of flavors, due in large part to the pool of red cabbage juice seeping into the other components, is really what elevates this dish. The dumplings are meant to be thick and somewhat under-seasoned, a vessel to capture the burst of tanginess injected from the cabbage. The slightly overcooked pork also benefits from the pool of juice originating from the plate’s lone veggie.

Make no mistake, compartmentalized eaters should shy away from this dish; the magic lies in getting a little of everything on each forkful… and this is exactly my kind of eating!

Like most dishes at The Pantry, the Roasted Pork Shoulder represents hearty comfort food that fills your belly without putting a dent in the wallet.

The restaurant continues to consistently serve up dynamite cocktails, shareable appetizers (like the bacon-wrapped dates and truffle deviled eggs) and traditional entrees under an umbrella of top-notch service and a cozy atmosphere.

I wonder what I’ll order next time around. Maybe the Fish & Frites.

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8 Comments

John Keller March 3, 2014 at 10:36 am

I totally agree on this entree. One of my favorites in Little Rock. The Pantry is our favorite restaurant in Little Rock. Tomas & co. are doing it all the right way. Try the fish & frites, best fried fish & fries in LR. The house made cheesecake is one of my favorite desserts. The best NY style cheesecake in LR.

Beth Bryant-Claxton March 3, 2014 at 10:59 am

Their Wiener Schnitzel is fantastic

Lisa March 3, 2014 at 1:19 pm

We had a beautiful pre-marathon meal there Saturday. The Pantry is our favorite haunt in LR, hands down.

    The Mighty Rib March 3, 2014 at 5:59 pm

    Lisa, what did you order?

Gary Anderson March 3, 2014 at 5:01 pm

I’ve had this dish and many others at The Pantry, haven’t been disappointed ever. Great food, great service and genuinely nice people; the best restaurant in Little Rock.

    The Mighty Rib March 3, 2014 at 5:59 pm

    Well said, Gary. The Pantry is so consistently good.

Stephanie March 12, 2014 at 11:04 am

Hey Kevin and foodie friends— Love, love, love The Pantry! One of my favorites. Tomas is the nicest, most friendly restaurant owner. The food is always fantastic, and the wait staff is consistent. My fave dish he made is paella, which he served at the restaurant’s anniversary party last year. If they do it again, I highly suggest you go! Amazing.

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