My aversion to smoking establishments has kept me from checking out Four Quarter Bar in Argenta. Now that that excuse is out of the way, let me tell you how much I enjoyed the place.
Yes, after a couple of years of procrastinating, I finally got off my ass last Saturday night and went to the popular neighborhood joint. The combination of perfect weather and the knowledge of Four Quarter’s patio prompted me to go, as did the rumors of delicious food.
We arrived around 7 p.m. to a place 1/4 full of what seemed to be neighborhood regulars. Sure, the bar smelled of smoke, but at that hour, there weren’t clouds of it, and the ventilation seemed better than I imagined. With that said, I was hungry, thirsty, and looking forward to enjoying the night air in the back patio, so I headed to the bar and placed my order.
There’s no missing Four Quarter’s simple, 10(ish)-item menu that hangs right above the bar. After getting the bartender’s attention, I ordered the mac & cheese with bacon, poutine, smoked pork chimichanga, and a 6-pack of 75-cent (each) High Life Ponies. The chimichanga was recommended by a new friend who I just met at one of the tables, so I was more than excited to try it out.
About 10-15 minutes later, the food arrived at our table in the back. Me, along with my friends Wes and Leighanne, tore into the dishes like a pack of rabid dogs, which is exactly how one should consume bar food.
Except here’s the thing.
This wasn’t your typical greasy, forgettable bar food. While the poutine, with it’s gloppy, fairly bland gravy and odd choice of home fries, was a bit of a miss, the mac & cheese and chimichanga were both huge hits. I loved Four Quarter’s use of elbow mac for the dish, but was especially impressed with how the pasta wasn’t overcooked. It had just the right bite … a perfect al dente. And as satisfyingly delicious as the mac & cheese was, the star of the show was without question the chimichanga. Specifically, the pulled pork stuffed inside the enormous rolled, then fried flour tortilla was some of, if not the, very best pulled pork I’ve eaten at a restaurant in Central Arkansas. It was tender and smokey, but no overwhelmingly smokey, and I appreciated how the kitchen wasn’t stingy with the portion.
This chimichanga will get me through the doors of Four Quarter a hell of a lot sooner than later. However, next time around, those bbq nachos are calling my name.
With friendly and attentive service, great food, and a nice patio area, there’s a lot to like about Four Quarter Bar. It seems my love for the place was better late than never.
Four Quarter Bar
415 Main St, North Little Rock
Hours: Monday-Saturday 3PM–2AM, Sunday 12PM-2AM