I’m willing to bet that an overwhelming majority of people reading this post have never heard of Super 7 Grocery Store, much less eaten at this hole-in-the-wall taqueria/store located at 1415 John Barrow Road. Frankly, it’s not much to look at from the outside. There’s no glitzy sign, no eye-catching name—it looks like a thousand places you’ve driven by a million times before and never given much thought to check out.

Like many of Little Rock’s top taquerias (La Regional and Mercado San Jose come to mind), Super 7 also doubles as a mini grocery store. On this day, I opted to skip the store side and head right for the restaurant.

As I sat down, my tablemate informed me that Super 7 offers a daily buffet ($8.99). After hearing this information, I immediately rose to my feet and headed to the back of the establishment and found a small, yet fresh assortment of dishes such as refried beans, stewed chicken, rice and taquitos.

“Buffet Me” would have dived right in, but fortunately, he died sometime in his mid-20’s. Now that I’m 37, buffets of any variety, even something as enticing as Super 7’s, are just a bad idea. So, we sat down and ordered a few sandwiches … a wise choice, indeed.

Ten minutes later, a beautiful beef milanesa torta ($6.50) arrived at the table. There’s really no telling how many tortas I’ve eaten in my lifetime, but I can assure you it’s a pretty high number. I’d put Super 7’s torta among some of the best I’ve put away.

But what separates this torta from so many like it? Essentially, it’s the little things—like super fresh bread, perfectly fried beef, ripe avocado and spicy pickled jalapenos—that make a huge difference. Heck, even the shredded American cheese, which you so rarely see, was a nice touch. This torta was big, but not gigantic, and somehow managed not to fall apart into a jumbled mess.

Give it a try. I think you’ll agree that it’s one of the better sandwiches in town.