I recently joined Daniel P. Walker and his son Max for a quick breakfast meet-up at Casa Mañana (6820 Cantrell). I’m a huge fan of the restaurant, but had never gone for breakfast.

When it comes to eating a traditional Mexican breakfast, this born-and-raised Houston boy will always opt for the huevos rancheros ($7.49), as I did last Saturday morning. Does it get much better than eggs and refried beans? Well, in the case of Casa Mañana’s version…the answer is yes. But that’s not to say I didn’t enjoy these huevos rancheros. I did, in fact…very much so. It’s just that I’ve had better in the past.

The eggs (cooked over easy) rested atop corn tortillas and alongside a hearty dollop of beans. You could tell there was a strict attention to detail in both the egg and bean preparations. After a quick poke of the fork, a pool of egg yolk melded wonderfully with the ranchero sauce and beans. The sauce itself was fresh, light and mild in heat. This was food heaven.

But I wasn’t overly impressed with the side of red potatoes. Make no mistake, they were very well-prepared, I just prefer a deep-fried potato option when it comes to this dish.

What I didn’t care for was the side of flour tortillas—which I found to be bland and fairly pedestrian. Eggs of this level deserve to be soaked up with a freshly made tortilla, and in this respect, Casa Mañana’s huevos rancheros fell short.

Imperfections aside, I’m still a big fan of the restaurant. I’ve had too many outstanding meals here to let a few mediocre tortillas change my opinion of the place.

P.S. I wish management would consider opening the blinds for the morning shift. Eating your breakfast in near darkness is both odd and a bit off-putting.

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1 Comment

artiger January 9, 2014 at 5:07 pm

I suppose if you spent time in Houston (or Texas in general), the bar is pretty high for something like huevos rancheros. But my, that plate pictured above looks mighty fine to me.

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