Posts Tagged bread
Monthly Feature, By Jarred Kibbey
Each month, Jarred highlights one of his favorite dishes from around Little Rock.
There are few dishes that I have found in Little Rock that I can place on a list for “best sandwich,” “best breakfast item,” and “best lunch* item,” but the lox bialy at Boulevard Bread Company is firmly on each of those lists for me.
Lox isn’t something I ran across growing up in rural Arkansas. To be honest, I didn’t even know what lox was for the longest time. Once I found out, the idea of eating fish for breakfast wasn’t something that sounded appetizing – or even a good idea. Where I grew up, there was only one way to prepare fish, deep fried with a cornmeal batter. So I avoided it as long as I could.
When I finally tried lox, it was at Boulevard Bread. I was instantly hooked and had to order another one the next day. The cured salmon goes so well with the chewy onion bialy, briny capers, sliced red onions, cream cheese, mixed greens, and tomato. I am not sure what it is about this specific sandwich, but I have ordered similar dishes at other places and nothing comes close.
I have tried other variations of the sandwich at Boulevard when they were out of the onion bialy. I have tried it on a cheese bialy, but it isn’t the same. It needs the sharpness of the onion cooked in to the bialy. I have tried it on the multigrain bread, and it doesn’t hold up as well as the bialy. I have a friend who swears by subbing the cream cheese for goat cheese, it takes it to a whole other level. I want to try it, but I just can’t bring myself to mess with something I love so much.
I crave this sandwich and come to Boulevard specifically for it. Boulevard has a wonderful, creative brunch menu and I have tried many of the dishes. I say “tried” and not “ordered” because I always bum a bite off someone else at the table, because I am always going to order the lox bialy. Ordering the same dish every time is something I really try to avoid, but I just can’t help it when it comes to this sandwich.
*Note: lox bialy is only served until noon. I was severely disappointed when I tried to order one for a late lunch and subsequently threw a temper tantrum when I got back to the car.
The crawfish étouffée at The Faded Rose is fantastic! Figured I’d get that out of the way.
A hearty portion of mildly spicy, slightly thickened, blond roux with a plentiful supply of small crawfish tails was topped with a pile of rice and tender celery.
The dish of étouffée ran about $9, which was a great value when you factor in that a basket of Leidenheimer bread and a side soaked salad were included in that price. The Faded Rose’s soaked salad, even with its inclusion of those dreaded green olives, was a perfect balance of oil and vinegar. I gobbled up the entire plate, olives be damned, before the étouffée made its appearance. Truth be told, the Diet Pepsi, salad and half a loaf of bread felt like a satisfying lunch. But when someone puts a plate of crawfish étouffée in front of you, temptation always wins out.
My lunch (with a soda and tax, but excluding tip) cost $12.99. And I was full … as in, I-didn’t-want-to-eat-for-the-rest-of-the-day full. You’ll find that most dishes at The Faded Rose fall under the “stick to your ribs” category, and judging by the steady business, that suits most customers just fine.
Finally, it should be noted that we received wonderful service from our friendly waitress, Beth. Even though the restaurant was practically full, our food arrived at the table within minutes, and the drinks were refilled in routine fashion. Given the bustling setting, it would have been easy for Beth to make us feel rushed with our lunch. Yet she didn’t … another mark of a great server.